DIRT BIKING: THE MT WILHELM EXPERIENCE

February 23, 2020

DIRT BIKING: THE MT WILHELM EXPERIENCE

It was 4am in the morning of Saturday 1st February 2020, the pick-up wagon pulled over at my place for an early morning dash out of town. Got my backpack, called up media colleagues, sort them out into two vehicles and we are off for an exciting journey that will take us through four provinces and 13 districts in just three days.

We stopped by at 11mile outside Lae to tie up two bikes that were on Antonio's ranger. His driver was a bit new to the road and so we got Larry to be the navigator as we took on the dusty road up to Yalu.

Bikes on Antonios ranger

The sun was kissing the mountains as we raced through the Markham valley to Watarais junction.

Neil at Sasiang creek along the Markham valley

At Watarais, our small team of media personnel see off our colleagues and our Lae bikers as they head out to the Ramu Valley in Madang. We drove up into Goroka, then Kundiawa and arrived at Betty's Lodge in Gembogl at 6pm.

Betty's Lodge at the foot of Mt Wilhelm is a magical place to visit (which I will write about in my next post) and it feels like being in Heaven on Earth.

Strawberry galore at Daulo Pass

The place was getting colder and I could feel my clothes getting wet till I could no longer feel my fingers. (Thanks to Marchy for lending me a spare cold shirt)

A group of locals were waiting to welcome us at the main road. They led us to where the singsing group was warming up. I was thrilled how tourism & hospitality can bring together a village and a tribe to be part of its success.

Bundi dancer at Betty's lodge

Anyway, back to the dirt bike story.

Our Lae team arrived at Usino junction where they were met by four bikers who rode in from Madang town. Our media crew and drivers returned back to Watarais and took on the Highlands highway to Kundiawa.

The 10 bikers started off from Usino junction and wheeled through the rugged terrains, wet crossings and steep climbs up to 7000ft.

Daniel and Neil with Imure Fire-Head Dancers in Bundi

At Snowpass, they were greeted by the Imure fire-head dancers from Karizokara in Inland Bundi, Madang province.

Only two bikers made it to Betty's Lodge at 9:30pm that evening. Cold shivered and bruises burning with the cold, Neil and Daniel head straight to a fitting therapy beside the fireplace at Betty's lodge.

Eight other bikers who ran out of fuel had to stay overnight at Snowpass were well received by the locals. I heard, they slept in a small hut, well guarded by locals who were stunned by the bikers passing through what has been a bush track to them.

Bikers enjoying coffee in the company of locals at Snowpass

By midnight, other crew members arrived at Betty's Lodge, had a decent meal prepared from locally bred trout fish, rice, potatoes and vegetables. A warm blanket over our heads and day one was dusted off.

Sunday was another mist-ical morning at the foot of one of Southern Hemisphere's highest peak Mt Wilhelm 9,500ft/2850m.

The singsing groups were out with the birds and excitement was already in the air to welcome the remaining bikers as support vehicles left Betty's lodge for Snowpass.

Shivering with cold, I took a walk with media friends through Betty's flower galore. It was like walking through the Garden of Eden as flowers of all colors, shapes and sizes lined up a narrow pathway towards the trout fish farm.

Anyway, fast-forward it two hours later, the bikers started arriving from Snowpass at Betty's Lodge. Twenty Simbu bikers led by Abigail Kaupa rode through the rugged stony road from Gembogl station to Mt Wilhelm.

Barbecued trout fish at Betty's Lodge

Trout fish prepared for barbecue

At around midday, trout fish were barbecued and served with fresh watercress collected from streams coming down from Mt Wilhelm. The fish delicacy was best compared to what you may find at any major restaurants in Papua New Guinea.

By 1pm, we left Betty's Lodge as bikers wheelied through the villages and locals cheering in excitement. It was something new that people from such remote parts of PNG dont have the privilege to witness.

The people were friendly and wished us safe journey as we passed through. I know it would be a story to tell for generations. Some of us stopped over to take a photo or two were greeted with excitement. Such experience is not for the soft-hearted, Papua New Guineans are truly amazing people.

At 3pm, the bikers arrived at the newly constructed Gembogl road, a perfect condition for wheelies and free riding.

With a police escort, the bikers meandered through the sharp turns into Kundiawa. Pangs was handy behind the wheels and really got a few bikers thinking “It might be scary inside the vehicle”.

The ride into Kundiawa town stole the show on that lazy Sunday afternoon. “Four-corner Town” they used to say, Kundiawa came alive on that afternoon as the visiting bikers wheelied around town.

A stop over for a farewell as thousands scream their hearts out in excitement as we left Kundiawa and freewheeling the highway back to Goroka.

As it dusks over Daulo pass, the bikers rode in through Asaro and into Goroka town. We tailed the riders and caught up with Antonio somewhere close to Asaro at dark. His lights weren’t working so we escorted him slowly into Bird of Paradise hotel in Goroka.

We stayed overnight in Goroka and then left for Lae the next day. It was an experience that will never be forgotten.

Some of our friends from Port Moresby flew out from Goroka, we left bikers back in Goroka and us we had to travel on back on the highway.

The following days, photos were shared, stories were published and footages appeared on TV news but I was still looking for words to put into this blog write up.

Up till today, I still want to take another trip up to Mt Wilhelm or maybe spend a couple of weeks in Gembogl for instance.

What a wonderful world we live in and in the words of the Niugini Dirt Bikers “the riders will have memories to cherish for a lifetime. This is Real PNG. People who have nothing gave everything for the riders when they needed assistance.”